Barging (barge cruising) France, Chalon sur Saone, River Saone, Burgundy vineyards

Reims to Château-Thierry: May 19^th, June 16^th, July 14^th, August 11^th, September 8^th.

Château-Thierry to Reims: May 26^th, June 23^rd, July 21^st, August 18^th, September 15^th.

On the first day of the cruise, Sunday, the morning is devoted to the city of Reims, the capital of the Champagne Ardennes Region which is made up of four Departments; Marne, Haut Marne, Ardennes and Aube. Passengers are free to explore the city, notable for its Cathedral, the Basilica of St. Remy and its museum, and of course its excellent cafés. Sunday is a good time to visit the city. Services are held in the Cathedral and, although the shops are closed the main attractions are open and uncrowded. Although our mooring in Reims is close to the centre of the city transport to the centre can be provided if required and in this case is provided back to the boat in time for lunch on board. During the afternoon we cruise to Sillery. Sillery is a popular mooring for boaters and craft from various countries can be seen in its port. Close by is one of the large French War Graves (Nécropoles) commemorating a small fraction of those killed in the battles in Champagne during the First World War. Ranged in neat rows the headstones express, by their shape, the faith of the dead, Christian, Muslim, Jewish or Free Thinker.

Behind, in the distance, lies the blue gray Montagne de Reims, the whole tableau peaceful, dignified and serene, but still a nagging reminder of the slaughter that has raged over this country in living memory. On Monday we leave our mooring in Sillery to begin our descent to the valley of the River Marne via the Canal de l’Aisne à la Marne. Initially we rise through three locks to bring us to the summit level of this canal. This canal, opened for navigation in 1866, crosses the watershed which separates the valleys of the Rivers Aisne and Marne. As such it played its part in defending Reims during World War 1, at one stage remarkably hosting two French gunships as part of those defences.

As we rise towards the summit we see the champagne producing villages surrounded by vines which lie in the folds of the Montagne de Reims. We now navigate the tunnel of the Mont de Billy, a distance of 2.3 kilometres. Tunnels were expensive to build so they are comparatively rare. However, they permit the canal to have a longer length of precious water at its highest level; also fewer locks were needed. The Mont de Billy tunnel is well built with good masonry blocks, is lit and mostly dry, ie a far cry from those in

Britain

. After emerging from the tunnel we soon encounter a flight of eight locks which drop us some 80 feet in the space of 7 kilometres to reach Condé sur Marne. The towpath along this stretch is of high quality for both walking and cycling. As it falls the canal winds its way past cottages with trim kitchen gardens and stores of wood drying out for winter fires. Condé is a small village which boasts a charming wooden market hall opposite the boulangerie, a friendly bar, a small port de plaisance and a remarkable church steeple of ancient vintage which appears to be quite unique. In Condé we visit the champagne house of N. Potié for a tasting of his celebrated wine.

On Tuesday we leave the Canal de l’Aisne à la Marne to join the Canal Lateral à la Marne as it descends towards the river navigation. For a while we leave the vine covered hills as the canal winds its way through woodlands, keeping close to the fast flowing River Marne. We arrive at Tours sur Marne, pass its lock and reach Bisseuil, where a swing bridge awaits us, then reach Mareuil sur Ay, a beautiful lock with an abundance of wild flowers and fruit trees beside it. Beyond the lock terraced vines reach down to the canal on an impossibly steep slope; in the distance we see once again the great vine covered hills before us as the canal runs in a straight line towards the river. Passing Ay, where legend has it that the Kings of England and

France

obtained their wine, we at last reach the river, descending through the last lock on the canal at Dizy. The river is now wide and gentle as it winds past charming small champagne villages. We moor beside one for the night. During the afternoon we visit La Chocolaterie in Pierry, where we see how those liqueur filled chocolates in the shape of champagne corks are made and wrapped on machinery over 70 years old.

The market at Château Thierry View of the Marne Valley from The memorial at Dormans

On Wednesday our cruise continues down the Marne through the most beautiful scenery until we reach Dormans where during the afternoon there is an opportunity to visit not only the imposing memorial commemorating the fallen in the two great battles of the Marne during World War 1 but also to sit in the unspoilt courtyard of an 18th century mill sipping a glass of champagne. We moor in Dormans for the night. Thursday sees us continuing our journey down the Marne, past pretty locks and the ubiquitous vine covered hills to reach our destination, Château Thierry. This town has historical importance both strategic and literary. It was here that the advance on Paris was brought to a halt by the Allies during WW1; it is also the birthplace of Jean de la Fontaine whose fables resonate through time. His house is now an interesting museum featuring the man and his work which there is time to visit. For the energetic a stiff climb gets you to the ruined castle and the gate through which Joan of Arc reputedly passed when she liberated the town. There is a magnificent view of the Marne valley from the castle.

On Friday morning after breakfast passengers are transferred to Paris hotels, Gare du Nord or CDG airport. Alternative arrangements may be made.

Hotel barge cruising ( barging ) in France